Article: TALES FROM TOUQUET
TALES FROM TOUQUET
Staring down the barrel of two weeks of school holidays with no plans, I knew something had to be done. Quick. So at the last minute I decided to make the most of the proximity of our European neighbours, and cross the channel to France for a few days.
In less time than it takes us to get to West London we found ourselves in another world, well Le Touquet - France's version of a seaside town but a million miles away from Bognor.
It's called Paris-Plage due to its proximity to the capital and the amount of Parisians who summer there in their fabulously colourful villas and modern apartment blocks that line the seafront.
It's incredibly clean and chic, almost like a toy town, but with more personality and style. Stunning sand dunes and a massive stretch of beach sit alongside pine forests and country clubs. Small boutiques and brasseries line the promenade so you can while away the hours drinking coffee (aka wine) and watch the world go by.
Given the fact it was early April we were gambling on the weather, but for once this gamble paid off as the sun shone throughout our stay which meant we spent most of our time enjoying the town and it's surrounding rather than huddled in restaurants or our Air Bnb.
We had a magical time and are currently planning our return trip. So I thought I'd share some of my highlights and tips in case it inspires to you turn that staycation into Le Staycation!
GETTING THERE
We are rather fortunate to live a 45 minute drive from the Channel Tunnel, so we booked a spot on Le Shuttle and drove.
This is honestly the easiest thing in the world. No queues for check in, no bag check or standing endlessly in corridors waiting to be ushered onto a plane. Just drive up and drive on.
35 minutes later, bonjour, you're in France. The roads are incredibly easy - one straight road takes you to Le Touquet on the motorway - you have to pay for the tolls, but the €5.40 is definitely worth the faster and direct route.
Tip: Not wanting to sound like a parking bore but this might be the only thing you need to give some thought to. Unless your accommodation offers free parking options you may need to consider dropping your bags and parking a 15 minute walk away in the free parking zones as trying to park in the town centre or near the beach could prove costly or problematic. We parked in a large open air car park near the Hippodrome which was free and walked back into town.
WHERE TO STAY
This was very much a family holiday and we travelled along with my sister in law and her kids so we opted for an Air Bnb in the centre of town. This allowed us to walk everywhere and pop in and out of the apartment as and when we needed to.
That said there are some lovely hotels should you wish to push the boat out a little bit.
LE WESTMINSTER
This is THE place to stay if you can. A glorious art deco building on the edge of town with quiet luxury whispering throughout its high ceilings and soft furnishings. It's where Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royal and Sean Connery signed his Bond contract so that should give you an idea of it's prestige.
Boasting a Michelin starred restaurant and a spa for ultimate indulgence this is a hotel that's effortlessly elegant and allows you to rise to the occasion.
LE MANOIR HOTEL
If golf is your thing, then the old Manor House is perfect. Nestled deep into the forest this 40 room hotel allows you to soak up the glamour of the town while making sure you get your daily 18 holes in before lunch.
Contemporary in feel it offers an oasis of calm and a swanky place to stow your clubs. With a restaurant, pool, tennis court and conference room you can hole up here for work or pleasure.
HAEC OTIA
Literally meaning 'these pleasures' in Latin this elegant guesthouse offers all the luxury you could dream off with a whispered subtlety and quiet glamour. Consisting of just 10 suites or apartments you are positioned perfectly between the hustle and bustle of town and the quite exclusivity of the tennis club.
This is less shouty than Le Westminster and more self aware indulgence. The house offers fresh locally sourced breakfast and appetizer boards should you wish but your location allows you to experience all the joys of the nearby brasseries and return home to the comfort of your Egyptian sheets.
WHAT TO DO
There is an abundance of activities on tap in Le Touquet depending on the amount of effort you wish to exert. You could play golf, tennis or go horse riding all in the same day, or alternatively sit on the beach with a chilled glass of Chablis and read your book. The world literally is your 'huître' (oyster).
Golf
Golf is very much at the heart of Le Touquet (fun fact: the town's mascot is a caddy). Boasting 3 stunning courses it has attracted enthusiasts and experts alike since 1904, and the venue is listed in the top 100 sites in Europe.
If, like me, it's not really your bag you can still sit at the clubhouse and enjoy a G&T and take in the scenery.
All three courses are open to the public and can be booked in advance, and with prices starting from €30 for 9 holes it's also pretty reasonable.
Horse Riding
Probably the second most popular past time in Le Touquet is horse riding. Whether it's watching the races in the summer or taking pony rides around the Equestrian centre, it's a wonderful place to get up close and personal with our larger four legged friend
The races take place predominantly in the summer months and are open to all. This is not your Ascot, full glad rags affair but a more casual relaxed event to have a few drinks and watch a few races.
If you did want to take up riding yourself you can book a lesson with an instructor or join one of the many walks they offer from beginners to advanced galloping on the beach. Prices range from €50 for an hour and a half.
If you have kids you can also turn up on the weekend for a pony walk where you guide your little one around the area on the most adorable little Shetlands. You can find all the details of what's available at the Equestrian Centre here
Cycling
Now I'm not a massive bike rider but this was probably the most fun we had all holiday. The area is perfect for bike rides, there are allocated bike lanes around the town and the route around the sand dunes is breathtaking.
You can easily rent all manor of bikes from Bike 4 You in town. We opted for what they call a Rosalie bike - a pedal quad bike that sits 3 or 4 (depending on the size of your little ones). You can rent these for as little as €20 for an hour which was plenty of time to take in the pine forest and part of the sand dunes but you could rent them for longer and take a picnic with you along your route. No need to book, just rock up and take what they have available.
Aquariums
Yes, that a plural of aquarium! You have a couple of options depending on how long you want to spend looking at species from the big blue.
About a half hour drive back towards Calais you'll find Nausicaa - Europe's largest aquarium and it really is quite spectacular. Home to over 1,600 species and 58,000 animals ranging from sharks, rays and penguins it's brilliantly laid out right on the seafront so a perfect activity if you find yourself with a rainy day to spare.
Closer to home there is a small aquarium in the Maréis Sea Fishing Discovery Centre where not only do you get the chance to immerse yourself in the lives of local fishermen but you also get the chance to get up close and personal with some of the species in their touch pool.
Beaches
Obviously during the summer season the huge expanse of beach is at your disposal. No exclusive clubs or resorts hogging a private beach here just a glorious stretch of white sands and numerous beach bars to enjoy a drink on.
There are also smaller kids playing areas and kids clubs where you can leave the little ones for anything from half an hour to a day should you wish!
Market
Every French town has a weekly market and Le Touquet is no exception. Theirs falls on a Thursday or Saturday morning (also Mondays during the summer holidays). Offering an array of fresh produce there is also a large number of colourful stalls selling everything from scarves, clothes, jewellery and homeware.
Grab a coffee and croissant at the Hotel des Arcades while you decide on all the things you want to buy. I am also told that you must grab a rotisserie chicken from the market as they are to die for.
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Depending on the weather and time of year, there are a range of other pastimes to enjoy in the town.
Tennis
I know this may feel like a sports holiday or destination but I couldn't not mention the incredible tennis centre on the outskirts of town. It is one of France's oldest clubs and boasts 21 outdoor clay courts - the most in the country. It also has 3 illuminated Padel Courts, mini tennis courts for the kids, and a heated swimming pool. You don't need to be a member to book a court and prices range from about €20 an hour for Padel or €24 for tennis during peak times.
Casino
I’m not much of a gambler myself—I tend to find it a bit too stressful—but if it’s something that appeals to you, the uber-glamorous Casino Barrière is said to have inspired Casino Royale. For Bond enthusiasts, it’s likely a must-visit.
Nature
This might sound like a broad topic, but you really are surrounded by some of the most beautiful scenery and landscapes. You can take a walk or cycle through the 800+ hectare pine forest, or spend time at the Baie de Canche Nature Reserve—a protected coastal ecosystem offering some of the best birdwatching in northern France.
WHERE TO EAT
I mean you're in France so pretty much everywhere is wonderful from a crepe on the corner to a Michelin star meal you are honestly spoilt for choice.
These are some of our favourites from our trip along with a few places that we would loved to have tried but were not open - worth saying that out of season a lot of places are closed Monday - Wednesday.
Cafe Des Sport
Don't let the Google Reviews put you off, this place is an institution and exactly what you want and love about a traditional French brasserie.
Busy, buzzy, with a menu full of favourites and a wine list that offers a delicious Cote de Rhone for €22 you know you're onto a winner. We loved it so much we went back for a second time on our last night.
Plage des Pirates
If you can imagine the perfect beach club this would be it. Tables on the sand looking out to sea with chilled Chablis and a club sandwich - honestly heaven. Again we went back numerous times as the kids could play on the beach in front of us while we order wine and portions of chips. It definitely felt like the place to be despite being the off season, so I imagine come the summer months booking would be essential.
There are other similar beach clubs along the coastline but this was by far our favourite.
La Nonna
Tucked into the tennis club (but not exclusive to the club) is a fabulous Italian if you fancy a change from the French cuisine. It's sun soaked terrace overlooking the clay courts and little pool is the perfect place to sip on a Spritz and treat yourself to a delicious plate of pasta or pizza. It's a bit of a walk out of town but a great place to stop off at on your way back from a game of tennis or a pony ride.
Les Cannailles
We spotted this little bistrot around the corner from our apartment and were compelled to try it - not only for it's stripped back decor but also for it's seasonal menu that had us drooling. It did not disappoint. A slightly fancier affair so we left the kids at home and enjoyed a more peaceful evening with a fabulous wine list and casual yet attentive service. We loved it.
Worthy Mentions
There were a couple of other places we would have loved to try but were either closed during our stay or were probably wasted on our younger party members. However thought they were worth sharing all the same and will be planning a visit on our return.
Heading out of town towards the equestrian centre you'll find this locals favourite for breakfast and brunch. Enjoy the peaceful sunny terrace or grab some food to take away and enjoy a picnic on the beach.
This is a Le Touquet institution and a must if you are a fish lover. Whether you're looking somewhere to enjoy a glass of champagne and oysters at the bar or a more formal fine dining affair this is a firm favourite with locals. Make sure to try their famous fish soup.
If you're looking for a grab and go affair this place looked amazing. Serving only croques (not sure about the pies?) but these are no ordinary croques - offering both veggie and meat options it looked like a great place to grab a snack and a cold glass of beer.
The smells coming from the take away (with small seating area) were to die for. So much so we grabbed a few pizzas for the kids and made sure to devour a few slices ourselves. Again another great option if you didnt fancy going out or wanted to enjoy a bite to eat and watch the sunset on the beach.
This was also closed while we were there but have ear marked it for our return as the open dining room and sharing plate menu looked incredible.
WHERE TO SHOP
There's no shortage of lovely little boutiques and stores in town including the most beautiful collection of kids stores I have seen in a long time. The main drag is on Rue Saint-Jean but there are some hidden gems off the side streets too.
The town isn't huge so I would just walk around and pop into any and all the stores that spark an interest but if you wanted some pointers these were my firm favourites.
Pharmacies
Ok so not really a shop shop, but I have a thing for French Pharmacies and there are a couple of brilliant ones in town. I usually stock up on the brands that you can't find in the UK (like SVR and La Rosée) but I just love the layout, selection and the fact you can get Melatonin gummies.
Maison Paulette
A gorgeous concept store off the main streets selling everything from chic French perfumes, hair clips and matches. They also give you the best hot metallic pink bag with your purchase. Head here first and you won't need a beach bag for your trip. Trust me.
Mamacita
As mentioned the children's stores are second to none in Le Touquet. This was one of my favourite as it had a selection of adult clothes and accessories as well. But honestly if I had a little girl it would have been a dangerous spree.
Grand Cube
There were a number of 'Cube' stores dotted around town but this one was an interior focused one and had such a great selection of pieces ranging from designer hand painted plates to my favourite selection of matchboxes ever!
La Cave Touquettoise
You can easily grab some very decent wine at any of the local supermarkets but this wine store just had the edge. I am not great on my French wines so always prefer a little advice - luckily a knowledgeable, incredibly helpful member of staff guided us towards a delicious bottle of red at Aldi prices. Definitely worth a visit if you're looking to try something different.
Terre de Fromages
Like wine, there is no shortage or delicious delis and produce stores, but the huge cheese wheels and minimal decor of this cheese shop was perfect. I know current import rules makes taking any cheese home difficult but if you wanted to grab some Comte with your evening glass of wine this is the place.
So there you have it. My highlights and recommendations for a truly wonderful trip across the channel.
We are heading back at the start of the summer holidays so it will be interesting to see how the town feels at the height of the season. I'm confident it will hold the same magic and charm as it did for our first trip, and I'm hoping there will be many more to come.
Andrea
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