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Article: NOTES FROM NORMANDY

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NOTES FROM NORMANDY

NOTES FROM NORMANDY

This summer we made a last minute escape to France - heading back to Normandy which was a firm favourite when we went there back in 2022.

The holiday fun started with...research, and the obligatory endless line of Airbnb and restaurant reservations pages tabs clogging up my browser.

WHERE TO STAY

After much deliberation and some guidance from my partner (ChatGPT, not husband) I plumoed for Côte Fleurie - a stretch of coast dotted with elegant seaside towns like Deauville, Trouville and Honfleur. 
Lots of wide sandy beaches, old-school glamour and, most importantly, my beloved brocantes.
We decided to stay in Deauville itself as it was slap bang in the middle of all the action and meant not have to worry about driving to restaurants.
There's a number of accommodation options in the area, ranging from budget friendly campsites through to the famous 5* Berrier Hotel.
Here are the ones that caught my eye.

Le Normandy

Too expensive for me, but a girl can dream.
Legendary and historic. This 5* hotel located on the famous Deauville boardwalk and has hosted everyone from Churchill to Chanel. 
It's location and iconic architecture make it the perfect luxury stay (if your bank balance can handle it), with its private beach access, a spa, stunning interiors and views to die for.  

Villa Augeval

Something a little smaller, but oozing with charm this centrally located Belle Epoque hotel is one worth thinking about.
Perfectly located between the boulevards of Deauville and the famous racecourse you can still sample a little bit of old school glamour without such a hefty price tag.
It boasts and outdoor swimming pool which would be perfect in the warmer months.

Les Manoirs des Portes de Deauville

Just outside of Deauville this 16th Century historical manor house is nestled in 6 hectares with a heated outdoor pool and spa, it offers some R&R if you're looking for a touch of luxury away from the hustle and bustle of town.

The accommodation is either in the manor house itself or in one of the 9 separate cottages , all of which are beautifully decorated. 

You'll need a car (and be able to say 'non' to a glass of chilled Rosè) if you wanted to make the most of the surrounding area and attractions.

Pierre e Vacances

We opted for something a little more low-key and stayed in a self-catered apartment within the 5* Pierre & Vacances residence.
The location was ideal — right between Deauville and Trouville — making it the perfect base for our trip. It also had both indoor and outdoor pools, which we happily used to bribe the kids after long hours at the brocantes.
We chose a one-bedroom apartment with a sofa bed and balcony, knowing we wouldn’t spend much time inside (or even touch the kitchen!).
It was basic, but it had everything we needed — and the price and location definitely set it apart from other options. Bonus points for the underground car park, which was a huge help given how tricky Deauville parking can be in high season.
This was the perfect base for our Normandy adventure — we could stroll into both towns and make the most of the restaurants, cafés, shops, and beaches on offer.

WHAT TO DO

Beaches

From Deauville’s chic boardwalk to Trouville’s bustling promenade and Honfleur’s more rugged stretches, the Normandy coast has a beach for every mood.
Wide sands, rolling tides, and plenty of space make it easy to see why Parisians have been flocking there for generations.

DEAUVILLE

Deauville’s beach is the most glamorous stretch of the Normandy coast, with its famous wooden boardwalk and chic beach cabins named after Hollywood stars.
And it's all just a few steps from the bougie town centre, should you need a last minute beach towel from Louis Vuitton.

Tip: Make sure to rent one of the iconic 450 colourful parasols that come our during the summer season. 
They are handmade and carefully maintained each year and very instagrammable!
Prices range from €19 for just an umbrella to €30 for a parasol and two deckchairs. 

TROUVILLE SUR MER 

Trouville’s beach has a much more relaxed vibe than its glamorous neighbour witb more of a family feel. Less polished means less pricey, so diving into one of the seafront restaurants isn't going to wipe out your wallet.
Tip: take a stroll along the wooden boardwalk that dates back to 1867 and admire the incredibly handsome old houses just a few steps from the sand.

Markets

DEAUVILLE MARKET

In summer you’re completely spoilt, as Deauville’s weekly market runs every single day. 
Expect stalls piled high with perfect produce and stands selling cashmere scarves, handbags and homewares that will make a perfect memento of your trip.
My tip? Go early, grab breakfast at Le Hibouville, and sit facing the square — the people-watching is perfection as the impeccably dressed locals wander past while you sip your café au lait.

TROUVILLE FISH MARKET

Normandy is France’s second and even a veggie like me couldn't help but admire the seafood on offer at the market in Trouville.
Located in an elegant building on the quays, you'll find rows of stalls where the catch is laid out fresh and glistening, sold straight from the fishermen.
Even better, you can pull up a stool at one of the little bars, order a glass of wine, and have your oysters, prawns or whatever takes your fancy brought over directly from the stall to your plate.
The market runs daily from 9am-7pm.

BROCANTES

Every fourth Saturday of the month, Deauville and Trouville host their flea markets — so of course we got up early to make sure we hit both.
Deauville’s is set slightly uptown, near the grand villas with around 30 stalls it offered a mix of well-priced antiques and bric-a-brac. I plumped for a beautiful mother-of-pearl articulated fish (for obvious reasons).
The market in Trouville’s  runs right along the main shopping street and feels more like a flea market.
Locals set up tables selling everything from vintage clothes to toys and trinkets, while the shops spill out onto the pavement with their sale items.

BEAUMONT-EN-AUGE

While chatting to one of the (very handsome) brocante owners, we discovered there was another antiques market in a little village about 20 minutes’ drive away.
We set our alarms and were on the road by sunrise - this time to Beaumont-en-Auge, quite possibly one of the prettiest villages I’ve ever seen with half-timbered houses that could have been lifted straight from a film set.
Once a month the village hosts a fabulous brocante that spills through every street and square.
I've done LOTS of markets all over Europe and this was one of the very best, especially with no pesky luggage allowance holding us back on our purchases.
The market takes place on the third Sunday of each month.
Bring cash and haggle hard!

Horse Racing

Horse racing is woven into the fabric of both Deauville and Trouville, with a history stretching back to the mid-19th century when Parisian high society flocked to the coast for summer racing.
Today Deauville’s two racecourses — La Touques and Clairefontaine — host a packed calendar of flat races and summer festivals, including the prestigious Deauville Barrière Meeting in August which draws an international crowd.
Over in Trouville, racing has a more local, lively feel, but both tracks make for a brilliant day out whether you’re a fan of the sport or just want to soak up the atmosphere, place a small bet, and enjoy the spectacle.

Tip: In August Deauville hosts evening races every Thursday night with a range of food options and drinks and live music until 11pm

Casinos

I'm not much of a gambler but both Deauville and  Trouville  have their own casinos, adding to the Riviera-by-the-sea glamour of the coast.
Deauville’s Casino Barrière is more fabulous and part of the 5* Hotel  so imagine enormous chandeliers, Belle Époque elegance and a rather upmarket crowd.
While across the bridge, Trouville’s casino feels smaller and more relaxed, but both make for a fun night out if you fancy a flutter after a day on the beach. Remember no kids allowed!

Tennis

I’ve been taking tennis lessons every week for the past couple of years, and it’s quickly become one of my favourite things to do. As I was travelling with my tennis buddy, we thought we’d check if there were any nearby courts for a quick knockabout.
What we didn’t expect to find were 17 courts and 5 Padel courts right on the seafront! Tennis has apparently been played there since the turn of the century, and the stunning clay courts are available to book by the hour — lessons also available if you fancy polishing up your game. Roland Garros, here we come!

Honfleur

Hornfleur is a much busier tourist town, especially in the summer months so you need to bear that in mind but saying that you really do feel like you've stepped into a painting so definitely worth the trip
We spent the day wandering around the cobbled streets, exploring the antique shops and (you guessed it) more boutiques, and stopping for a camembert stuffed omlette that was so delicious I can almost still taste it.
Whilst our kids definitely do not love brocantes (yet!) they did love the Naturospace butterfly house, where you can stroll among tropical butterflies and exotic plants.
 
Tip: the Quayside of Sainte-Catherine with all it's restaurants can feel quite touristy and overwhelming, so consider heading over to the other side of the port near Quai Saint-Etienne were things immediately feel much calmer.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

There are so many places in and around both Deauville and Trouville that it was hard to make a decision, but these are the ones that we loved and would happily recommend.

DEAUVILLE

Bouillon Mornay

During our whirlwind Paris trip in February Bouillon in Pegalle was one of the highlights of our trip so when I discovered there was a sister restaurant around the corner from our apartment it was the first place I booked.
They are a revival of the classic Parisian-style brasseries serving simple, traditional French dishes at surprisingly wallet-friendly prices.
It also has a range of good veggie options which isn't always the case in France.
Make sure to book ahead as they were turning away any walk-ins when we were there on a Thursday night.

 

Tip: Stop off at the Yacht Cafe around the corner in the main square for a drink beforehand. It's a gorgeous setting for an aperitif and a great people watching  space. Also lovely for breakfast.

Mamma Mia

Finding a good Italian restaurant can be tricky but this little gem was literally on our door step. With a large open terrace and fabulous views of the marina it was such a hit we went there twice. 
If you can blag one of the banquettes outside as you get the most beautiful evening light at sunset.

 

Tip: Have a late evening drink at the actual Le Deauville Yacht Club a stone's throw away. The interior decor was to die for - pure 70s glamour with striped ceilings, pink bamboo chairs and wine list to make your eyes water. Its open from Wednesday-Sunday.

Brasserie Marion

Just off Place Morny, Brasserie Marion feels like a bit of a local institution. Run by the daughter of the chef from the famous Central in Trouville, it’s always busy with locals and weekend regulars, waiters who seem to know half the tables, and a menu that’s as French as it gets — oysters, moules, steak tartare, crème brûlée.
It’s elegant, delicious, and even offers a couple of vegan options (still a rarity in France).
Nothing groundbreaking, just good, honest brasserie food right in the middle of it all.


 Tip: Skip desert and instead head to Martine Lambert  around the corner for their incredible ice cream. Made from delicious Normandy milk – with flavours as incredible as gingerbread with candied fruit or lime, rum and fresh mint mojito.

Cafe Marius

We stopped here for a drink one afternoon on the way back from the beach and it felt like we had discovered a hidden gem. 
Its shaded terrace, tucked away above a fabulous interiors shop and hidden from the bustle of town, is easy to miss — but it’s the perfect spot to enjoy a chilled glass of wine and watch the world go by.

Bar du Soleil

This was another highlight of our trip. Bar du Soleil sits right on Deauville’s beach. It had that effortlessly cool, holiday vibe that makes you feel like you're really living your best life.
After a glass (or bottle) of rosè stroll across the boardwalk and have a little snooze on one of the famous Deauville deckchairs.
Tip: Before you make the walk home stop and grab an ice-cream at the little souvenir shop next door. They have soft serve ice-cream in 4 flavours - including chocolate and pistachio!
These were the places we actually visited but we also had the following options on our list:
Like Bar du Soleil this is also part of the Berrier Hotel group but a little further along the boardwalk. This one boasts a private beach so an option should you really want to push the boat out.
An Italian deli and wine merchant sits just opposite the market square, with tables outside for a quick snack between stalls — or you can pack up some deliciousness to take with you and enjoy on the beach.
Le Drakkar is something of an institution in Deauville, long known as the spot where actors, directors and models pile in during the film festival.
A menu heavy on French classics give it that old-school brasserie feel - and the chance of a little celebrity spotting with your steak frites. Booking is essential, especially in summer. 

TROUVILLE

Les Vapeurs

Les Vapeurs has been around since 1927 and quickly became our favourite spot in Trouville — authentic, lively and everything you’d hope for in a French brasserie.
It’s a little chaotic in the best way, with waiters weaving through the tables and endless plates of moules frites, but that’s exactly what makes it so good. The bathrooms alone are worth a trip for their stunning vintage posters and mosaic.
Make sure you enjoy the free shot of Calvados at the end of the night to really feel like you're making the most of your French experience.
Tip: All the tableware is perfectly 1950s kitsch and a wonderful souvenir of your trip. Try and sweet talk one of the lovely waiters to let you take away one of their branded glass water bottles.

Hotel Le Central

We didnt get a chance to go this time but Hôtel Le Central still has bags of charm and a prime location by the port. It's also part of a group of restaurants all around Trouville which for next time would include the following:

Marinette - like Hotel Le Central this institution has been given a face lift and enjoys a prime location and fabulous terrace overlooking the fish market. 
Le Petit Central - sits just beside Hôtel Le Central and has the same brasserie spirit but on a smaller, more casual scale. It's lively terrace always seems full of locals and offers a similar French traditional cuisine. 
Les Mouettes - Looking out on a charming cobbled street along Trouville’s port, the restaurant Les Mouettes is an ode to the region’s cuisine.

WHERE TO SHOP

DEAUVILLE

Coco Chanel opened her first boutique in Deauville back in 1927 so it's no surprise that there is no shortage of designer options in town, even if they look like they're in Disneyland.

All the big names are here, from Hermès to Louis Vuitton, lined up around Place Morny and the surrounding streets. It feels a little like a mini Paris, but by the sea, and even if you’re only window shopping it’s worth a wander for the sheer glamour of it all.

L'Intemporelle

I couldnt quite bring myself to go into Hermes & Louis Vuitton but I did pop in a few times into this pre-loved second hand store on rue Eugène Colas.

You'll be able to gawk at the Birkins lined up (and secured) on the shelves as well as drool over the Chanel chains and brooches. 

Anne

So beautifully chic and elegant. Anne is the kind of boutique where you want to be able to afford to wear all the clothes, douse yourself in all the perfumes and just live the lifestyle that they are selling. One day.

Printemps

Printemps in Deauville has had a bit of a reinvention — no longer just a department store, it’s been transformed into more of a luxury concept store.

It's ultra sleek and modern and it's open plan layout brings together high-end fashion, beauty and lifestyle under one roof. Definitely worth a walk through at the very least.

MB Fromagerie

A visit to a proper French fromagerie is an absolute must when you’re in town. There are plenty to choose from, but this little gem tucked away on a side street in Deauville quickly became a favourite. The selection was incredible — cheeses from across Normandy and beyond — and best of all, it’s open every day, all year round. Such a pity we can’t bring cheese back into the UK right now… otherwise, the car would’ve been packed to the brim!

TROUVILLE

Trouville’s Rue des Bains is the town’s main shopping street, lined with boutiques, galleries and food shops. It’s a world away from Deauville’s designer names and glossy storefronts, but that’s exactly its charm. It also has a wonderful array of antiques and brocantes full of charming French treasures.

Ambroise Alliou

I adored this store.
Among the beautiful mid-century furniture and antiques was the most incredible collection of shell-inspired pieces — from oyster shell lamps to hand-carved wooden chairs, even down to the shell-shaped price tags.
You could splurge on a marble dining table for a few thousand euros or pick up an antique shell candlestick for thirty — there truly was something for everyone.
And (the owner) Ambroise couldn’t have been lovelier. He doesn’t have a website, but his Instagram is well worth a follow.

Villa Gypsy

Villa Gypsy is one of those perfectly curated homeware stores, offering a mix of well priced accessories, tableware and a lovely cup of coffee. This, their first store, opened about 10 years ago but they have since opened outlets in Paris, Hornfleur and Brussels. It's the kind of shop I wish I had on my doorstep.

L'Usage du Papier

I'm a sucker for a book shop, even if it's in French. This little shop along the main drag also had a lovely selection of postcards and stationary where you can find the ideal little souvenir or gift.

HONFLEUR

There are of course other shops in Honfleur including fabulous souvenir shops selling local biscuits, chocolates and Breton tops but for me the selection of antique shops and brocantes is the main attraction. So here are just a few of my favourite ones that I think are worth a visit.

Gribouille and Coco & Co

You can't really find any information online about this incredible antiques shop but it is definitely worth a trip.

You'll find it on Rue Haute and is next door to another brilliant little shop called Coco & Co. Between them they stock everything you could want from a Normandy brocante - crockery, glassware, small furniture and in Gribouille's case he had a vast collection of antique ceramic cats and doves (complete with glass eyes) that you see all over the roof tops in Deauville.

We of course had to walk away with one. 

La Belle Etoile

You'll find another fabulous, and well priced antiques around the corner on rue de l'Homme de Bois. An eclectic mix of beautiful painted furniture, religious artefacts and vintage linens you'll definitely find something to go home with here.

  Séverine Oriot Antiquités

We made a bee line for this particular shop as soon as we had arrived as it was my favourite from our previous trip. Frustratingly they were closed so I could only stare through the window longingly at all the things I couldn't buy. But again another one definitely worth making the effort, and checking the opening times!

__________________________________________

WOW — you made it to the end!
You have no idea how happy that makes me. Honestly, it’s taken me almost as long to write this newsletter as the time I spent in Normandy. No exaggeration.
I truly hope you’ve found it helpful and a little inspiring.
If you’re planning a trip, do get in touch — I’d be more than happy to answer any questions you might have.
Needless to say, we had the most incredible time and are already plotting our return… now I just need to find more space in the house for all those antiques.
Andrea x

 

Written by Andrea Flamini

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