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Article: FIVE NIGHTS IN FLORENCE

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FIVE NIGHTS IN FLORENCE

FIVE NIGHTS IN FLORENCE

There are a few perks to running your own business. 
The first, of course, is being surrounded by beautiful jewellery. 
The second is the fact that all our jewellery is hand made by artisans in Tuscany. This means that from time to time I need to take a trip to Italy to meet with them.  A terrible ordeal as you can imagine. 
So this time I decided to add on a few days to the trip, bring the kids and soak up all the beauty I could from one of the most incredible cities in the world.
If you are planning a trip anytime soon here are my tips and recommendations of some of the places we loved most.
xxx

WHERE TO STAY

We decided on a couple of Airbnbs are it was easier for the amount of people we were but I knew that I wanted to stay on the other side of the river in the area called Oltrano. 
 
After my last trip to Florence the area around Santo Spirito was by far my favourite. Full of independent shops, bars and quirky restaurants. It felt more Florentine and away from the tourist hoards around the Duomo. 
 
It is also a 10 minute walk to the Uffizzi so still very much central and walkable to all the key attractions. 
 
If you are interested in the actual Airbnbs that we stayed on these are them. One was a converted Medieval Tower that made my feel like Rapunzel while the other was more modern but had this incredible view of the Santo Spirito church.

WHAT TO DO

There is an abundance to beauty all around Florence. Whether that's a visit to the Uffizzi or The Accademia to see David, it's hard to really know what to recommend.
As we were travelling with kids we opted out of the main church visits (which personally I would have loved) as the queuing times needed and the costs to enter were unlikely to be a hit. 
I did manage to drag them to the Uffizzi though as I really wanted them to see just the incredible amount of art on display and come up close and personal with some of the most famous masterpieces in the world. We didn't stay too long, and a drink on the rooftop bar definitely helped, but I am please to say that they did walk away as much in awe of the Masters as I am. 
As before my tip for the Uffizzi is to either book the 8.15am slot or go towards the end of the day. We bought our tickets in advance for 4.30 and we only queued for about 20 minutes. The crowds were also thinning by this point so it didnt feel too overwhelming.

GIOTTO'S BELL TOWER


On my wish list was a climb up Giotto's Bell Tower, one of the most iconic examples of Gothic architecture in the city. However there are 414 steps and a rather claustrophobic narrow ascent so, despite the promise of breathtaking views I think this one might have to wait till my next trip.

ANTIQUES MARKET - PIAZZA INDIPENDENZA

 Wherever I am in the world I will hunt down an antiques market and if possible book my trip around the key ones. I therefore knew that on the Sunday we were there the monthly market in Piazza Indipendenza would be on.
 
It was the otherside of the city so a good 25 minute walk from our accomodation but to be honest it was a great way to see the city on foot.
 
The market is a cross between high end antiques, vintage clothes stalls and flea market finds. The perfect mix really as it can suit whatever budget you have at the time - your suitcase size may be a problem. 
 
I could have bought so many beautiful paintings, enough crockery to feed an army and more costume jewellery than Moira Rose. What I did walk away with were a couple of brooches (my new obsession), a vintage cardigan jacket thing that Dad would have loved and a print of a random crest, mainly because I like the frame. 
 
The moral of this story is if you happen to be in Florence on the 3rd Sunday of the month make sure to head to this gem of a market. 
 

MERCATO CENTRALE

There are food halls, and then there is the Mercato Centrale, situated inside an impressive late-19th century steel and glass building in the middle of the city.
Worth a visit to see the fully functional market complete with butchers, greengrocers and fishmongers on the first floor, but make sure to head upstairs to the sample all the Tuscan delicacies with a Spritz. Make sure to get there before midday if you want to nab a table and have a chance to walk around to choose your perfect dish. We settled on some crostini and a large chunk of parmesan. When in Rome, or in this case Florence.
 

AREZZO

Ok so bare with me here, I appreciate this isnt Florence but if you were planning an extended stay than this stunning Etruscan fortified town up in the Tuscan Hills is only an hour away by train and is known as the city of gold because of all the jewellers who live there - including ours.
It also featured in the Oscar winning film 'La Vita é Bella'  (if you havent seen it you must).

Arezzo boasts a wide range of sites including a fortress, museums, churches and even a Roman amphitheatre. What's more on the 1st Sunday of every month it's home to a famous sprawling antiques market where you'll find everything from museum grade pieces to some incredible antique jewellery. 

Honestly if you have the time I cannot recommend it enough.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK 

There is no shortage of places to eat in Florence, ranging from your Michelin star fine dining offerings to queuing on the street corner for a famous Lampredotto sandwich. 
That said I was keen to try and find somewhere the locals would frequent, off the beaten path and without a hefty price tag.

TRATTORIA SABATINO

I'm actually reluctant to share this gem of a place as it was so wonderful that I feel it should remain a well kept secret. But as I found it through the brilliant Bellini Travel I can't claim to be the original source. 
It's off the usual tourist trail - about a 15 minute walk away from the Ponte Vecchio so that in itself might put off a number of people. But tucked away off the main road you'll find this unassuming trattoria serving a daily menu of whatever is in season. You may have to share one of the main tables and queue alongside the locals as it opens to get a space but honestly it is worth it. 
The menu changes daily depending on what's in season and is a simple, no fuss affair such a Ravioli al Sugo for €5 and a side of Patate Arrosto for €3. A litre of the house wine is €9 and a lovely easy drinking wine at that. 
Tip: You can't book a table so my advice is arrive as they open, be prepared to wait - honestly it's worth it and make sure to pick up their homemade chocolate bars and soaps on your way out as a present.

TRATTORIA ZÀZÀ

There is definitely no secret keeping when it comes to this Florentine institution. You'll find queues round the block, even with a reservation but dont let that put you off as the places is vast and worth the hype.
You might expect the prices to reflect the popularity but we were pleasantly surprised to find it extremely reasonable with delicious Tuscan classics in a vibrant, energetic space. You MUST have the Panna Cotta - it's the best I have ever ever tasted.

O'MUNACIELLO

We arrived in the evening on Valentine's Day so I wanted to find somewhere the 6 of us wouldn't feel overwhelmed by any romantic settings so was keen to find a great pizza place. O'Munaciello did not disappoint. Round the corner from our apartment this large, buzzy pizzeria served up one of the best pizzas I have ever had. An extensive menu of pizzas and 'fritti' baked in a huge wood oven in the centre of their vast vaulted ceilinged room it was the perfect introduction to our Florentine trip.
If you have the room for it definitely order the Fritto Misto. We are still talking about it months later.

TRATTORIA CASALINGA

Casalinga means housewife in Italian and the idea of great homemade Tuscan food is at the heart of the Oltrano institution. If you could imagine a traditional Italian restaurant this would be it. With long paper covered tables, pictures of Italian football teams and full of groups of locals all enjoying a Florentine bistecca and a glass of house wine. 
Locals and tourists queue up for both lunch and dinner as the food is delicious, reasonably priced with an atmosphere that makes you immediately feel at home.

DALLA LOLA

I'm probably not the only one obsessed with Stanley Tucci's series of his travels to Italy, so I made a note of this little unassuming trattoria when he visited it in his Florence episode. 
It's as quaint and welcoming as it comes across on film. With a changing daily menu and extremely reasonable prices it's no wonder that it's fast becoming a destination for both locals and my fellow Tucci Stans.


SPIRITUUM BAR

We stumbled across this little cocktail bar as it was literally across the road from our Air Bnb. Absolutely delicious cocktails and nibbles in a teeny tiny room with decadent, boudoir-esque decor. It's a fantastic place for an aperitivo or a night cap on your way home.

LOGGIA BAR

I know I've already sung the praises for this roof top bar but as we went again this time I could't leave it off. I know that there are a number of other places that promise a cinematic view of Florence but I absolutely love the setting here, overlooking Santo Spirito square, with an idyllic panorama of the city. My tip is to go at sunset and sip a glass of Franciacorta. 

BABAE 

Babae was one of the first bars to reintroduce the historical wine window in Florence, so it's worth a pilgrimage just for that experience alone. That said, inside you'll find a charming, vibrant bar serving delicious 'stuzzichini' and a fantastic cocktail menu. 

 

OTHER PLACES OF NOTE

As you can imagine there are hundreds of other brilliant places but it all depends on your budget and I suppose the amount of time you spend in Florence. That said these are a few of the other places we visited of had on our wishlist

Santo Bevitore -  I had been here in my last trip with friends. It's aching cool with the most incredible wine list. I just think this time it's fabulousness would have been lost on the kids but I have it earmarked for my next trip.

Trattoria Camillo -We did in fact go here this time and it was a bit of a spend up. It's a classic, well loved institution. Delicious food, fantastic service and a definitely one to try if you wanted traditional Florentine fare. 

Osteria Santo Spirito -This was an alternative for our first night and in fact we did stop here for a drink beforehand. It's buzzy, busy and full of students and locals. The food looked great but they were equally happy to let us have a few drinks one of the prime tables outside in the square.

WHERE TO SHOP

Florentines are known for their impeccable style. Understated, elegant but always chic. The shops around the city mirror this. Whether its the designer stretch of stores along the Via de'Tornabuoni or the cluster of independent boutiques in the Oltrano, along with the abundance of fabulous pre-loved and vintage stores dotted across the city you are spoilt for choice. 
These are just a handful of some of the stores that we made a beeline for this trip but my advice to you would be to wonder around, turn off the main tourist trails and wonder down some of the smaller alleyways as you will no doubt stumble across a few gems.

Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

This is far from a hidden gem, as you'll probably have to queue along with the other tourists to even get into the store, but see it as a museum visit. Set inside one of the oldest herbal pharmacies in the world, this 1221 frescoed heaven is home to all the famous lotions and potions created for Catherine de Medici herself. You can still buy her original perfume or opt for one of the dark musky Tobacco candles instead. As you would expect the packaging is as exquisite as the products themselves.

PEGNA

Another Florentine institution you'll find this dry goods drugstore just off the Duomo. Full of the most delicious Italian delicacies, pastas, jars and biscuits along side rows of colognes and toothpastes. It's the perfect place to stock up on your gifts and souvenirs

 

Recollection by Abrici

You are spoilt for choice when it comes to vintage designer stores in Florence but this one is a cut above the rest. It's almost a museum of 20th Century fashion. Chanel, Hermes and Italian favourites Pucci and Valentino classics line the rails alongside costume jewellery, bags and accessories. Prices vary depending on the brand and age but at the very least its a must-see for inspiration alone.

 

Maglificio 

This is in theory a menswear shop but their handmade wool sweaters, organic linen T-shirts and silk and cashmere mix scarves are just as fabulous for a woman, I could have bought everything in the store. Tucked away on a side street off Piazza Santo Spirito this is definitely worth a visit for handmade Tuscan classics.


Stripe You

If you’re anything like me and love a good stripe, this place is absolute stripe heaven. A store entirely dedicated to those iconic parallel lines. Whether it’s a dress, a makeup bag, a pair of shoes or a deck chair, it’s honestly a riot of joy and colour.

OTHER PLACES OF NOTE

Riccardo Luci

There are an abundance of beautiful stationary shops, all showcasing the Florentine marbled paper. This one is a little lighter on the price but still with a stunning array of options.

I Visionari

If there is one thing I don't need is another pair of sunglasses, but honestly I could have bought every single pair in this fab little store off the Ponte Alla Carraia. They also have the best selection of glasses accessories I have ever seen

Lorenzaccio

Amongst the multitude of ceramic shops across the city, this elegant store stood out. It offers replicas of antique pieces,  stunning crockery and custom made pieces. We walked away with a mug and a number plaque for the house

 

 

Wow. That was a whopper but hopefully there are some pearls here for you to look up and enjoy.
 
Florence is possibly the most beautiful city in the world and just wondering around and soaking up all the culture and art will fill your cup. If you are planning a trip and had any questions please do get in touch. Any opportunity to talk about Italy really.
 
Thanks for reading 
 
xxx

Written by Andrea Flamini

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Read more
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This summer we made a last minute escape to France - heading back to Normandy which was a firm favourite when we went there back in 2022. The holiday fun started with...research, and the obligatory...

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